“…Yoho National Park – whose name derives from a Cree
expression of wonder and reverence – is much smaller, covering about
507-sqaure-miles… It’s history is bound up with the Canadian Pacific, which in
1909 blasted a pair of tunnels right through the mountains. Today, you can
watch trains enter and leave at the Lower Spiral Tunnels Viewpoint.”
The tunnels – they are fascinating in person. There are several trains per day (maybe, like 30), but not on a regular schedule so you might have to wait up to an hour to see one. I lucked out and heard a train whistle just as I arrived. You can basically see 3-sections of tunnel and watch a single train snake along the track before re-appearing to go what looks like the opposite direction above, and then finally another direction switch below. It was mesmerizing.
Also, stopped at Takkakaw Falls, which has a terrifying switchback and a view of the upper spiral tunnels along the way, Canada's second highest waterfall, with a drop of 1,250 feet.
“Seven miles northwest of Field, glacier-fed Emerald Lake is one of Yoho’s most popular destinations. The area’s Emerald Lake Lodge offers the park’s best accommodations in twenty-four two-story chalets.”
This was another splurge accommodation and I can’t recommend it enough – especially if you are outdoorsy. There are a ton of hiking opportunities here, and that’s good because there is no phone, no tv, no wi-fi in the cabins. The lodge has wi-fi and a TV, but, I think, every room has a real wood-burning fireplace and most have spectacular lake views. Originally I was scheduled for 2 nights, but while I was in Calgary (ironically at Maclin Ford – that niece of mine has her name all over my life recently) one of the techs told me about the snow tire law and encouraged me to cross the Rockies before October 1st. He made it sound like there were checkpoints where troopers were checking tires. As far as I can tell, there aren’t – unless it’s a chains required kind of storm.
I cut my stay at Emerald Lake to one night, and after
talking to a tire guy in Kamloops (and scheduling an appointment for
cross-climate tires on 10/1) he reassured me that I’d be fine driving the rest
of the way after the tire requirement went into effect.
What I learned at this Lodge is that I am really good at
lighting paper on fire, but not so good at lighting wood on fire. Luckily, the staff is more than happy to come
help out.
I booked a rate that included a 3-course dinner and
breakfast. Aside from those meals, I literally hung out in my room and looked
at the lake. I had a little balcony, and
when it got a little misty, I went inside where the wall was a series of windows
and looked at the lake. I wanted to sleep with the door open and a fire burning
because “I don’t want to be warm. I want to be cold and made warm by a blanket.
(™TikTok)”
The duvet that they have on the bed does an excellent job of keeping you
warm. When I woke up in the morning I
snuggled into the duvet and just looked at the lake. My only wish was that it was a sunny day
because I would’ve gotten up for that sunrise.
Alas, it was very overcast and cloudy.
So, the food.
Dinner:
Potato Tart: Whipped goat cheese, heirloom tomatoes,
arugula, herb oil, aged balsamic – Not quite what I was expecting, but super
delicious.
Free Range Chicken Breast: Roasted shallot, pancetta, potato gnocchi, zucchini, herb butter sauce – the pancetta was quickly swept to the side, and aside from the rest of the dish being a little too soupy (rather that saucy) was so good – especially the gnocchi.
Vanilla Cheesecake: Fresh lemon curd, berry salad, toasted
marshmallow. I honestly don’t remember
the lemon curd, but dessert wa *chef’s kiss.
Breakfast was a mountain granola with Greek yogurt and berry
compote. Peppermint tea to drink. Not gonna lie, it was a lot of granola and
yogurt. It was really good, but way too
much.
