#218 (continued) Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden

Scholar’s Secret Scavenger Hunt

There are bat shapes all over the Garden. Bats symbolize good luck in Chinese because the word for bat sounds the same as the word for fortune or blessing.  The door handles are also bats – a docent was giving a tour while I was in there and she whispered to me to be sure and touch the door handles to bring good luck.  Near the Jade Water Pavilion is the Heavenly Well, there are bat shapes on the floor, in the window shapes, and on the pointed roof tiles.

 

The Garden was built in 1986 by a team of Chinese artisans who used the method and materials used during the Ming dynasty. So, no power tools, nails, screws or power tools. They used mortise and tenon joins to slot together wooden beams.

There is a hidden cave under the rock mountain. The Scholar designed his Garden as a miniature version of nature. Caves and mountains were mythical places where the Immortals lived.  The cave invites the Immortals or “good spirits” to live there. Dragons can also inhabit the cave, to see a Dragon was considered good luck.

The Scholar’s Face can be seen if you look closely at the wooden screen in the Jade Water Pavilion. A Scholar was a highly educated man who worked for the Emperor. He had to pass very difficult exams that tested his education in literature, the arts, and philosophy.

Plum blossom symbolizes spring; Orchid, summer; chrysanthemum, autumn; and bamboo, water.  Together these four flowers are referred to as the Four Gentlemen and can be found in the Jade Water Pavilion.  The Four Gentlemen also represent the ideal characteristics a man should have: courage (plum blossom), moral virtue (orchid), loyalty (chrysanthemum), and resilience (bamboo). 

The railings were designed for people to sit sideways and lean against them so you can look at the view whilst chatting comfortably with a friend. The railings are all anchored by these hooks, I assume so you can remove or move around the railings.

Dragon shapes and symbols represent The Emperor, good luck, power, and greatness.  The Chinese dragon has the body of a snake and is covered in scales like a fish.  The roof of the zigzag corridor has tiles that represent the snake-like body of the dragon.

Turtles represent long-life. There are large rocks that act as steps throughout the Garden. The shape reminds us of a turtle shell. Anyone who steps on these rocks will live forever.  During the summer there are also turtles living in the pond. The Tai Hu rocks all come from Lake Tai in China. Made of limestone and naturally formed by erosion, their interesting shapes ask us to imagine what they may be.

#218 Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden

“…The Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden rises from a former parking lot on the edge of Vancouver’s Chinatown, the third largest outside the Orient, topped only by those of San Francisco and New York. It is the first (and is reputed to be the most authentic) full-scale classical Chinese garden ever built outside of China. … The finished product is a pocket-sized otherworld, a walled oasis of harmony where careful attention is paid to a classical balance between yin and yang: contrasting light and shadow, large and small, smooth and rough…”

This garden is beautiful.  It’s literally as described “a pocket-sized otherworld, a walled oasis of harmony”.  They also have a couple of things to make a visit educational and enjoyable. Their Visitor’s Guide is really excellent, and they have a couple of scavenger hunts on their website to help keep kids (and Jalaires) engaged during their visit.  Most of the below is straight from the Visitor's Guide and the Scavenger Hunt

From the Guide:

Moon Gate: Throughout the Garden, you will see circular opening and doorways. These are called Moon Gates, and like our beautiful leak windows, are perfect for framing views as you explore. The circular shape is symbolic of heaven and perfections, while the square and hexagonal shapes seen in other areas of the Garden represent earth.

Double Corridor: The double corridor acts as both a dividing and linking border between the classical Garden and adjoining public park, organically combining them into one whole. The ‘zigzag’ colonnade is designed to slow your stride and ensure the entire path is never seen at once. Views from both sides appear and disappear like paintings displayed in a long gallery.

Jade Water Pavilion: Like our double corridor, the Jade Water Pavilion called Han Bi Xie is a building that sits above the water, framing views on both sides. Notice the beautiful woodwork and lattice framed windows with patterns of plums, orchids, bamboo, and chrysanthemums.

Lookout & South Courtyard: The back pavilion, or lookout, provides one of the best perspectives of the Garden, although even from here you cannot see all the various elements in one glance. As you follow the path, notice the change in the zigzag pattern, and enjoy the serenity of the “heavenly well”; the small triangular courtyard where the walls and roof meet to highlight a beautiful garden scene.

Ting: The Cloudy and Colorful Pavilion is the focal point of the Garden as it sits high on a mountain of Tai Hu rocks. This traditionally-shaped pavilion is called a Ting, and is a very common feature in classical Chinese gardens, as it is considered an ideal space to sit and observe the world.

Scholar’s Study and Courtyard: The Scholars who would have lived in garden-homes read, wrote, composed poetry, studied music and painted here, in the most serene part of the Garden. See examples of a Scholar’s traditional “tools” in the study, including his writing implements, such as an ink stone, brushes, and any seals used to sign correspondence or poetry. As you explore the Garden, look for the artists’ seals in red on the bottom of mounted paintings and poems.

 

Music Pavilion: Situated on the edge of the Scholar’s Courtyard, this small pavilion would have showcased musicians hired to entertain the Scholar and his guests. Designed to promote acoustics, this small podium is raised above the courtyard as a sign of respect to the musicians who would have otherwise been considered of a lower social status to the Scholar.

Hall of One Hundred Rivers & Courtyard: Like rivers flowing into the sea, people with different vitures and contributions flow together to create a community and a better society. This largest and newest hall was built to showcase exhibitions and accommodate expanding educational and public programming needs.

China Maple Hall or Hua Feng Tang: The heart of this garden-home, China Maple Hall is a prime example of the traditional Ming dynasty building techniques (no nails, screws, or glue) found throughout the Garden. This hall contains rare, naturally stained nan wood pillars that were gifted from Suzhour and natural camphor rafters whose scent repels insects.

See part II for the Scavenger Hunt.

#217 (continued) Granville Island

“Foodies should also head to Granville Island … and spend the morning at Granville Market, once of North America’s best, brimming with seafood, meats, and wines from the province’s vineyards – the finest British Columbia has to offer. It’s food court reflects the cross-pollination of Canada’s most ethnically diverse city.”

I’d been putting off the last two items on my list for this trip because the weather had been so miserable, but the heaven’s blessed me with one last glorious weekend.  I’d decided that rain or shine I was going to finish up Granville Island and the Chinese Garden this weekend because the bed in my Airbnb was killing it me.  It was so uncomfortable that I hadn’t really slept and was getting grouchier and grouchier by the day.  So, I decided to leave a week earlier than expected.

But the last Saturday and Sunday….lovely, crisp fall weather, the sun was out, the foliage was beautiful – the perfect weather for my last sight-seeing. Parking at Granville Island is free between 8am – 11am, and again after 6 pm.  Normally, I’d be hard-pressed to make it early in the morning, but I stayed on Texas time and took full advantage of the morning sun.

#217 Tojo’s and Granville Island

“Save yourself the cost of an airline ticket to Tokyo and head for Tojo’s, a bright and popular restaurant that is named for its revered chef-owner, an amiable innovator responsible for some of the best sushi Canadian dollars can buy.”

Y’all know, seafood is not my thing, and I’d long planned to hit Tojo’s for their cocktail hour rather than an actual meal. But COVID has indefinitely suspended their cocktail hour – the alternative?  Tojo’s to-go.

After the Musem of Anthropology I headed over to Tojo’s to pick up my order.

Chicken Karaage: crispy and juicy organic chicken, citrus soy marinade; vegetable roll: fresh seasonal vegetables rolled inside out; Seasonal vegetable tempura and Tojo’s Choice (Kitakata) sake: specially brewed Daiginjo Sake for Tojo’s, clear, crisp flavor and floral bouquet notes, off-dry, perfect balance of sweetness and acidity.

There were obviously issues with keeping everything crisp in a to-go situation, but even with allowances for that it just wasn't so impressive. 

#214 (continued) Museum of Anthropology

“In Vancouver, the province’s largest city, museum meisters will assure you that the Museum of Anthropology’s collection of native art and culture is no less stellar…  Housed in an award-winning building by Arthur Erickson, it’s best known for the cedar sculpture The Raven and the First Men by Haida artist Bill Reid.”

I visited the museum on a really cold and rainy day.  They have a small parking lot directly in front and a larger campus parking garage across the street.  Did I drive around the lot until a space in the small lot opened?  Yes, yes I did.  I was tired and cranky and cold. I really had to push myself to leave the house in the first place.

But was it worth it?  Also yes. The museum is undergoing a seismic stability project on their Great Hall, so all the totem poles have been moved to storage area.  The storage gallery is public, but the totem poles are lying down.

I expected the museum exhibits to showcase the local indigenous populations, but they had items from all over the world. Lucky for me, this Tree of Life from Mexico also had a very comfortable chair near it.  So, I sat and stared and listened to it breathe.

At one point, a security guard was walking by and we started chatting.  He’d worked at the museum for several years and said he often gets asked how long it takes to “do” the museum.  

“I never know what to say,” he said at the same time I was saying, “thousands of years.” He kind of looked at me and I explained that art isn’t about just seeing it.  

You find something you love, something you hate, something that moves you and makes you feel something and you watch and wait and eventually it speaks to you. It breathes. It lives. It connects. He was nodding in agreement.  Then, the previously empty gallery (it had been just us) started to fill up – at least 15-20 people walked in within about 15 seconds. 

He said, “I see this happen all the time here.  People having intense conversations about the art and the energy that conversation creates draws people toward it.”

Yeah, it’s worth the visit, even on a cranky, cold, rainy Saturday.

#216 Sooke Harbour House and the Aerie Resort

“Less homelike and more formal (and thus the special-occasion destination of many couples), the Aerie Resort offers stiff competition with its premium-quality kitchen and jaw-dropping setting, high atop Mallahat Summit at 1,200 feet, overlooking  Finlayson Arm and southern Vancouver Island.”

Aerie has changed its name to Eyrie, but it’s still got a gorgeous view from the top of the mountain.  Initially, I was going to roll Sooke Harbour House into my splurge hotels, but alas, it is closed for renovations.  I started thinking if I could sort of count it if I spent a day exploring Sooke Harbour, but ultimately scrapped that, too. It didn’t even occur to me that this entry was actually two locations and I could still have a fancy lunch at Eyrie Resort. The Eyrie struck me as slight run-down, maybe past its original glory, but the food was delicious and the staff was great.

I was torn between a couple of entrees and asked my waitress for a recommendation.  She said the chef is German so I really should have the Jaegerschnitzel.  Jaegerschnitzel it was. And it was delicious.

Jaegerschnitzel: breaded pork tenderloin, spätzle, cranberry chutney, broccolini with almond butter, mushroom cream sauce. 

Keeping with the German theme I had the Matterhorn for dessert: dark chocolate almond sponge cake, amaretto syrup, swiss dark chocolate mousse, almond cream, bittersweet chocolate ganache, alpine berry compote, marbled chocolate cup.

 

I’ve already decided I need to go back to Vancouver Island – so #216 will be revisited at some point starring Sooke Harbor House.

#215 Stubbs Island Whale Watching

So, Stubbs Island Whale Watching company shuttered a couple of years ago.  But several operators still run tours from Victoria during October.  I choose Eagle Wing Tours; they guarantee whale sightings, and they did not disappoint.

There was a little bit of weather drama.  I’d reserved a Saturday tour, and I got a call Thursday afternoon saying that the weather looked rough for Saturday and was I able to re-book for either Friday or Sunday.  I told them I could change to Sunday and they said they’d let me know Friday afternoon if we were on for Saturday or moved to Sunday. 

On Friday, the weather forecast has shifted and it was going to be a “day-of” call by the captains.  They said to plan on Saturday and they’d call by 8:30 am if it were rescheduled. Now, I don’t know if you’ve met my constant companion, anxiety. So, she kept me awake and sickly all night and all morning and yeah.  Not fun.  Of course, the day turned out to be a bit gray, but we had no rain, no wind, and it wasn’t even that cold.  And, we did see whales.  Lots of whales.  Some of the whales were a bit of a show-off and kind of played around in the kelp while we watched, amazed.

We also had a very close encounter with two humpback whales who decided they’d love to swim directly under the boat. It was amazing and totally worth it.  If you’re in British Columbia between May and October, I definitely recommend an Eagle Wing Whale Tour.

#214 Royal British Columbia Museum

“Regularly ranked as one of the top ten museums in North America, Victoria’s Royal British Columbia is as much fun for kids as for adults and as intriguing to locals as to foreigners. Visitors can walk through the province’s history from the Ice Age (the 10 foot wooly mammoth is a guaranteed hit with children) to its mining and fishing heritage, with lifelike dioramas…”

This really is a fun museum; they’ve even recreated a whole old-timey town including a movie theater.  They also have realistic background sounds of trains, blacksmiths, sea birds (in the boat exhibit), etc. I witnessed actual kids having a blast running around and discovering all the hidden rooms and things to do and see.

 

The museum must sit near the government buildings (in fact, I’m sure of it since a cross street is Government Street), and I’m not sure if this is an everyday thing or if it’s protest season in BC, but there were “protesters” outside every time I drove through the area.  I’m putting quotes around “protester” because the main theme I saw was pro-vaccine folks holding signs like, “Honk if you love science!”; “Honk if you love being double-vaxxed” etc.  I did see a smaller group protesting, I’m assuming, logging because they had save the trees themed signs.  

#213 Gulf Islands and the Hastings House

“The Gulf Islands archipelago – a string of some 100 partially submerged mountain peaks lying in the Straight of Georgia, between Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia – is Canada’s answer to Washington’s San Juans, though no where near as busy… Of the five most visited southern Gulf Islands, Salt Spring is the most popular and also the largest… Incongruously perched above the town amid 30 acres of flowering English gardens, towering Douglas firs, and water views is one of western Canada’s most exclusive hideaways, the Tudor-style Hastings House.”

This was, I believe, the most relaxing four days I’ve ever spent on any vacation, ever. I knew HH was on Salt Spring Island, and I knew that SSI was not Vancouver Island, but I did think there was a bridge between the two.  There is not.  Enter the surprise second ferry. 

I’d planned to do a couple of things on Vancouver Island while staying at Hastings House because I’d taken the days I spent there off work, but because taking a ferry anywhere is a bit of a hassle, I immediately re-thought those plans and decided I wouldn’t leave the islands until check-out.  Because I’m not much of an outdoor type, this meant that my plans were mostly sleep, eat, read, nap, sit by the fire.  And it was GLORIOUS!

Hastings House delivers warm muffins to your door each morning, a hot breakfast at the dining room is also included. So my days mostly consisted of collecting my muffins and eating one of them, getting ready for the day and wandering to the dining room for yogurt, fruit, and a fresh-baked croissant.  Because I also stayed on Texas time, I was generally the first person at breakfast and I got peace and quiet and to choose my own table every morning.

   

 

After breakfast, it was back to the room to read, once it hit about lunch time, I sometimes did a little excursion to a cidery, then back for my afternoon nap.  

The day rounded out with dinner in the dining room (2 of the 4 nights), and then sleeping with the windows wide open (so the room was chilly) and waking up about 2am to grab the remote and turn on the fire.  IT WAS GLORIOUS!

Monday, October 11^th was Canadian Thanksgiving and Hastings House did a holiday dinner on Sunday.  Turns out Canadian Thanksgiving is very much like an American Thanksgiving, at least when it comes to the menu – turkey, stuffing, potatoes, carrots, etc. The food was good, but the company in the room was not.  If you follow me on Facebook you’ve already heard the story.  Luckily, both sets of complainers checked out the next day so I never had to hear them complain again.

Hastings House was a splurge hotel for me, but have I mentioned?  IT WAS GLORIOUS!

#212 Whistler-Blackcomb Ski Resort

I’m obviously not skiing, and not really doing anything except another hotel splurge in Autumns finest foliage.

“Whistler-Blackcomb boasts more slopeside lodging than any other resort in North America. It’s only ski-in/ski-out property, however, is the swank Fairmont Chateau Whistler Resort, a friendly, gabled fortress dominating the ski area at the base of Blackcomb Mountain and embodying the style of the grand old Canadian Pacific railroad hotels.”

I thought Whistler was overrated.  It started out with what felt like all of Canada arriving for check-in at the same time. It was mayhem. It also meant that there were people everywhere, lines for valet, lines for self-park, lines to check-in, and even lines for the elevators.  It all felt very crowded and un-COVID-safe.

To be honest, I didn’t do much the weekend I was there because of the crowds, but I did have a really good sandwich and some really unique ciders at a pub across the street.

And while I don’t have any pictures of it (‘cause I was driving, in the rain, with the whole of Canada going back to Vancouver) the Sea to Sky Highway is just as beautiful as they say.