December 23, 2023

#229 Winterlude (Ottawa)

“…The imposing Chateau Laurier remains the finest hotel in the nation’s capital, if not all of eastern Canada. Built in 192, at the site where the Rideau Canal meets the Ottawa River, the Laurier offers a historical castle-like setting, handsome furnishings, old-world service, and one of the most European hotel experiences this side of the Atlantic.”

Again, did I go during Winterlude? No. Ironically, the sun was out in full for the weekend I spent in Ottawa. Lunch on the terrace was hot enough that I worried the staff would suffer heat stroke. I had a drink coupon that I used for a fruity summer drink, the dregs of which I ultimately surrendered the bees, but mostly I drank water – lots of water, to counteract that heat. The pizza was unusual, but pretty good.

ottawa


I booked tea service on check out day, and this made up for the marginal tea in Quebec. Food and atmosphere was much better here. 

Ottawa Tea Part

December 16, 2023

#228 Carnaval in the Heart of New France (Quebec City)

“It’s all here: cobbled streets, slate-roofed stone houses, a 95% French-speaking population, patisseries, vin rouge, and fresh baguettes.”

“At the famous Differin Terrace, a pedestrian-only rampart …offers the city’s best views.”

“…nothing is more Quebec than … Chateau Frontenac, the very symbol of the city, dominating the skyline from the top of Cap Diamard, the highest point in town. Designed in the style of the Loire Valley chateau and looking as if it’s stood here forever, it is, in fact, only a little over a century old…Outside it’s all stone and brick turrets, green copper roofs, and dormered windows, while inside, it labyrinthine corridors (can personally vouch for this) lead through various wings.”

Was I there during Carnaval? No. Am I counting it anyway? Yes.

I actually was in Quebec City twice in the summer of 2023. The first was at an Airbnb (rainy and miserable) and the second was as the last port city before debarkation of the HAL cruise (sunny and much better).

I went to high tea at Chateau Frontenac on my last day of the Airbnb. My plan was to arrive early, park, and explore the Differin Terrace before my reservation. It, of course, was pouring so I ended up just kind of wandering around the hotel (see above labyrinthine corridors) and then made my way to the restaurant. The tea was really marginal, I would rank it last of all the fancy high teas I’ve done, and while I was sat next to windows looking out on the terrace, I was also sat next to a couple of women who did nothing except complain the entire time, about everything.

Chateau Frontenac Tea

The shore day, I actually ditched my formal excursion and took a taxi back to the Terrace and had a lovely afternoon kind of wandering around and mostly people watching…a much better way to spend the afternoon.

Chateau Frontenac

Differin Terrace

December 9, 2023

#227 Vieux Montreal

Paris without the jet lag. Listen, my experience was not great, but that doesn't mean most people who go love it. The food was good, though.

Montreal

December 2, 2023

#226 Charlevoix

“…the waters where the St. Lawrence and the Saguenay rivers meet are home to beluga, minke, humpback, rorqual, and blue whales in the summer.”

It rained. It was awful. The worst whale-watching experience ever. No really, when I got to the pier/dock and saw the situation I sat in my car for a full 5 minutes thinking I should just ditch the excursion and go back to the motel. Instead, I reminded myself of the other whale-watching excursions I been on and how exciting and fun they were. Yeah, I should’ve skipped it. Along with a list of not fun things about the boat, service, etc. we didn’t see whales. Or at least I didn’t. Or maybe, I did. Does this count?

*maybe a beluga?

Screenshot_20230805_141802_Gallery

The excursion guarantees “marine mammal” sightings, so of course we also swung by the colony of sea lions? Seals? That just live on these rocks year round. After the excursion I found a little restaurant and had poutine and a club sandwich. That was the best part of Charlevoix. 

Charlevoix

While not actually part of Charlevoix, I’m including the HAL shore excursion to Saguenay here as well. In a miraculous turn of events, it was a beautiful day! The excursion I did went to an alpaca farm, a cheese factory, and a glass blowing studio. It really is a beautiful part of the world.

Alpacas Saguenay