#217 (continued) Granville Island

“Foodies should also head to Granville Island … and spend the morning at Granville Market, once of North America’s best, brimming with seafood, meats, and wines from the province’s vineyards – the finest British Columbia has to offer. It’s food court reflects the cross-pollination of Canada’s most ethnically diverse city.”

I’d been putting off the last two items on my list for this trip because the weather had been so miserable, but the heaven’s blessed me with one last glorious weekend.  I’d decided that rain or shine I was going to finish up Granville Island and the Chinese Garden this weekend because the bed in my Airbnb was killing it me.  It was so uncomfortable that I hadn’t really slept and was getting grouchier and grouchier by the day.  So, I decided to leave a week earlier than expected.

But the last Saturday and Sunday….lovely, crisp fall weather, the sun was out, the foliage was beautiful – the perfect weather for my last sight-seeing. Parking at Granville Island is free between 8am – 11am, and again after 6 pm.  Normally, I’d be hard-pressed to make it early in the morning, but I stayed on Texas time and took full advantage of the morning sun.

#217 Tojo’s and Granville Island

“Save yourself the cost of an airline ticket to Tokyo and head for Tojo’s, a bright and popular restaurant that is named for its revered chef-owner, an amiable innovator responsible for some of the best sushi Canadian dollars can buy.”

Y’all know, seafood is not my thing, and I’d long planned to hit Tojo’s for their cocktail hour rather than an actual meal. But COVID has indefinitely suspended their cocktail hour – the alternative?  Tojo’s to-go.

After the Musem of Anthropology I headed over to Tojo’s to pick up my order.

Chicken Karaage: crispy and juicy organic chicken, citrus soy marinade; vegetable roll: fresh seasonal vegetables rolled inside out; Seasonal vegetable tempura and Tojo’s Choice (Kitakata) sake: specially brewed Daiginjo Sake for Tojo’s, clear, crisp flavor and floral bouquet notes, off-dry, perfect balance of sweetness and acidity.

There were obviously issues with keeping everything crisp in a to-go situation, but even with allowances for that it just wasn't so impressive. 

#214 (continued) Museum of Anthropology

“In Vancouver, the province’s largest city, museum meisters will assure you that the Museum of Anthropology’s collection of native art and culture is no less stellar…  Housed in an award-winning building by Arthur Erickson, it’s best known for the cedar sculpture The Raven and the First Men by Haida artist Bill Reid.”

I visited the museum on a really cold and rainy day.  They have a small parking lot directly in front and a larger campus parking garage across the street.  Did I drive around the lot until a space in the small lot opened?  Yes, yes I did.  I was tired and cranky and cold. I really had to push myself to leave the house in the first place.

But was it worth it?  Also yes. The museum is undergoing a seismic stability project on their Great Hall, so all the totem poles have been moved to storage area.  The storage gallery is public, but the totem poles are lying down.

I expected the museum exhibits to showcase the local indigenous populations, but they had items from all over the world. Lucky for me, this Tree of Life from Mexico also had a very comfortable chair near it.  So, I sat and stared and listened to it breathe.

At one point, a security guard was walking by and we started chatting.  He’d worked at the museum for several years and said he often gets asked how long it takes to “do” the museum.  

“I never know what to say,” he said at the same time I was saying, “thousands of years.” He kind of looked at me and I explained that art isn’t about just seeing it.  

You find something you love, something you hate, something that moves you and makes you feel something and you watch and wait and eventually it speaks to you. It breathes. It lives. It connects. He was nodding in agreement.  Then, the previously empty gallery (it had been just us) started to fill up – at least 15-20 people walked in within about 15 seconds. 

He said, “I see this happen all the time here.  People having intense conversations about the art and the energy that conversation creates draws people toward it.”

Yeah, it’s worth the visit, even on a cranky, cold, rainy Saturday.

#216 Sooke Harbour House and the Aerie Resort

“Less homelike and more formal (and thus the special-occasion destination of many couples), the Aerie Resort offers stiff competition with its premium-quality kitchen and jaw-dropping setting, high atop Mallahat Summit at 1,200 feet, overlooking  Finlayson Arm and southern Vancouver Island.”

Aerie has changed its name to Eyrie, but it’s still got a gorgeous view from the top of the mountain.  Initially, I was going to roll Sooke Harbour House into my splurge hotels, but alas, it is closed for renovations.  I started thinking if I could sort of count it if I spent a day exploring Sooke Harbour, but ultimately scrapped that, too. It didn’t even occur to me that this entry was actually two locations and I could still have a fancy lunch at Eyrie Resort. The Eyrie struck me as slight run-down, maybe past its original glory, but the food was delicious and the staff was great.

I was torn between a couple of entrees and asked my waitress for a recommendation.  She said the chef is German so I really should have the Jaegerschnitzel.  Jaegerschnitzel it was. And it was delicious.

Jaegerschnitzel: breaded pork tenderloin, spätzle, cranberry chutney, broccolini with almond butter, mushroom cream sauce. 

Keeping with the German theme I had the Matterhorn for dessert: dark chocolate almond sponge cake, amaretto syrup, swiss dark chocolate mousse, almond cream, bittersweet chocolate ganache, alpine berry compote, marbled chocolate cup.

 

I’ve already decided I need to go back to Vancouver Island – so #216 will be revisited at some point starring Sooke Harbor House.

#215 Stubbs Island Whale Watching

So, Stubbs Island Whale Watching company shuttered a couple of years ago.  But several operators still run tours from Victoria during October.  I choose Eagle Wing Tours; they guarantee whale sightings, and they did not disappoint.

There was a little bit of weather drama.  I’d reserved a Saturday tour, and I got a call Thursday afternoon saying that the weather looked rough for Saturday and was I able to re-book for either Friday or Sunday.  I told them I could change to Sunday and they said they’d let me know Friday afternoon if we were on for Saturday or moved to Sunday. 

On Friday, the weather forecast has shifted and it was going to be a “day-of” call by the captains.  They said to plan on Saturday and they’d call by 8:30 am if it were rescheduled. Now, I don’t know if you’ve met my constant companion, anxiety. So, she kept me awake and sickly all night and all morning and yeah.  Not fun.  Of course, the day turned out to be a bit gray, but we had no rain, no wind, and it wasn’t even that cold.  And, we did see whales.  Lots of whales.  Some of the whales were a bit of a show-off and kind of played around in the kelp while we watched, amazed.

We also had a very close encounter with two humpback whales who decided they’d love to swim directly under the boat. It was amazing and totally worth it.  If you’re in British Columbia between May and October, I definitely recommend an Eagle Wing Whale Tour.

#214 Royal British Columbia Museum

“Regularly ranked as one of the top ten museums in North America, Victoria’s Royal British Columbia is as much fun for kids as for adults and as intriguing to locals as to foreigners. Visitors can walk through the province’s history from the Ice Age (the 10 foot wooly mammoth is a guaranteed hit with children) to its mining and fishing heritage, with lifelike dioramas…”

This really is a fun museum; they’ve even recreated a whole old-timey town including a movie theater.  They also have realistic background sounds of trains, blacksmiths, sea birds (in the boat exhibit), etc. I witnessed actual kids having a blast running around and discovering all the hidden rooms and things to do and see.

 

The museum must sit near the government buildings (in fact, I’m sure of it since a cross street is Government Street), and I’m not sure if this is an everyday thing or if it’s protest season in BC, but there were “protesters” outside every time I drove through the area.  I’m putting quotes around “protester” because the main theme I saw was pro-vaccine folks holding signs like, “Honk if you love science!”; “Honk if you love being double-vaxxed” etc.  I did see a smaller group protesting, I’m assuming, logging because they had save the trees themed signs.  

#213 Gulf Islands and the Hastings House

“The Gulf Islands archipelago – a string of some 100 partially submerged mountain peaks lying in the Straight of Georgia, between Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia – is Canada’s answer to Washington’s San Juans, though no where near as busy… Of the five most visited southern Gulf Islands, Salt Spring is the most popular and also the largest… Incongruously perched above the town amid 30 acres of flowering English gardens, towering Douglas firs, and water views is one of western Canada’s most exclusive hideaways, the Tudor-style Hastings House.”

This was, I believe, the most relaxing four days I’ve ever spent on any vacation, ever. I knew HH was on Salt Spring Island, and I knew that SSI was not Vancouver Island, but I did think there was a bridge between the two.  There is not.  Enter the surprise second ferry. 

I’d planned to do a couple of things on Vancouver Island while staying at Hastings House because I’d taken the days I spent there off work, but because taking a ferry anywhere is a bit of a hassle, I immediately re-thought those plans and decided I wouldn’t leave the islands until check-out.  Because I’m not much of an outdoor type, this meant that my plans were mostly sleep, eat, read, nap, sit by the fire.  And it was GLORIOUS!

Hastings House delivers warm muffins to your door each morning, a hot breakfast at the dining room is also included. So my days mostly consisted of collecting my muffins and eating one of them, getting ready for the day and wandering to the dining room for yogurt, fruit, and a fresh-baked croissant.  Because I also stayed on Texas time, I was generally the first person at breakfast and I got peace and quiet and to choose my own table every morning.

   

 

After breakfast, it was back to the room to read, once it hit about lunch time, I sometimes did a little excursion to a cidery, then back for my afternoon nap.  

The day rounded out with dinner in the dining room (2 of the 4 nights), and then sleeping with the windows wide open (so the room was chilly) and waking up about 2am to grab the remote and turn on the fire.  IT WAS GLORIOUS!

Monday, October 11^th was Canadian Thanksgiving and Hastings House did a holiday dinner on Sunday.  Turns out Canadian Thanksgiving is very much like an American Thanksgiving, at least when it comes to the menu – turkey, stuffing, potatoes, carrots, etc. The food was good, but the company in the room was not.  If you follow me on Facebook you’ve already heard the story.  Luckily, both sets of complainers checked out the next day so I never had to hear them complain again.

Hastings House was a splurge hotel for me, but have I mentioned?  IT WAS GLORIOUS!

#212 Whistler-Blackcomb Ski Resort

I’m obviously not skiing, and not really doing anything except another hotel splurge in Autumns finest foliage.

“Whistler-Blackcomb boasts more slopeside lodging than any other resort in North America. It’s only ski-in/ski-out property, however, is the swank Fairmont Chateau Whistler Resort, a friendly, gabled fortress dominating the ski area at the base of Blackcomb Mountain and embodying the style of the grand old Canadian Pacific railroad hotels.”

I thought Whistler was overrated.  It started out with what felt like all of Canada arriving for check-in at the same time. It was mayhem. It also meant that there were people everywhere, lines for valet, lines for self-park, lines to check-in, and even lines for the elevators.  It all felt very crowded and un-COVID-safe.

To be honest, I didn’t do much the weekend I was there because of the crowds, but I did have a really good sandwich and some really unique ciders at a pub across the street.

And while I don’t have any pictures of it (‘cause I was driving, in the rain, with the whole of Canada going back to Vancouver) the Sea to Sky Highway is just as beautiful as they say.

#211 (continued) Yoho

“…Yoho National Park – whose name derives from a Cree expression of wonder and reverence – is much smaller, covering about 507-sqaure-miles… It’s history is bound up with the Canadian Pacific, which in 1909 blasted a pair of tunnels right through the mountains. Today, you can watch trains enter and leave at the Lower Spiral Tunnels Viewpoint.”

The tunnels – they are fascinating in person.  There are several trains per day (maybe, like 30), but not on a regular schedule so you might have to wait up to an hour to see one.  I lucked out and heard a train whistle just as I arrived.  You can basically see 3-sections of tunnel and watch a single train snake along the track before re-appearing to go what looks like the opposite direction above, and then finally another direction switch below.  It was mesmerizing.

Also, stopped at Takkakaw Falls, which has a terrifying switchback and a view of the upper spiral tunnels along the way, Canada's second highest waterfall, with a drop of 1,250 feet.

“Seven miles northwest of Field, glacier-fed Emerald Lake is one of Yoho’s most popular destinations. The area’s Emerald Lake Lodge offers the park’s best accommodations in twenty-four two-story chalets.”

This was another splurge accommodation and I can’t recommend it enough – especially if you are outdoorsy.  There are a ton of hiking opportunities here, and that’s good because there is no phone, no tv, no wi-fi in the cabins.  The lodge has wi-fi and a TV, but, I think, every room has a real wood-burning fireplace and most have spectacular lake views.  Originally I was scheduled for 2 nights, but while I was in Calgary (ironically at Maclin Ford – that niece of mine has her name all over my life recently) one of the techs told me about the snow tire law and encouraged me to cross the Rockies before October 1^st.  He made it sound like there were checkpoints where troopers were checking tires. As far as I can tell, there aren’t – unless it’s a chains required kind of storm.

I cut my stay at Emerald Lake to one night, and after talking to a tire guy in Kamloops (and scheduling an appointment for cross-climate tires on 10/1) he reassured me that I’d be fine driving the rest of the way after the tire requirement went into effect.

What I learned at this Lodge is that I am really good at lighting paper on fire, but not so good at lighting wood on fire.  Luckily, the staff is more than happy to come help out.

I booked a rate that included a 3-course dinner and breakfast. Aside from those meals, I literally hung out in my room and looked at the lake.  I had a little balcony, and when it got a little misty, I went inside where the wall was a series of windows and looked at the lake. I wanted to sleep with the door open and a fire burning because “I don’t want to be warm. I want to be cold and made warm by a blanket. (™TikTok)” The duvet that they have on the bed does an excellent job of keeping you warm.  When I woke up in the morning I snuggled into the duvet and just looked at the lake.  My only wish was that it was a sunny day because I would’ve gotten up for that sunrise.  Alas, it was very overcast and cloudy.

So, the food. 

Dinner:

Potato Tart: Whipped goat cheese, heirloom tomatoes, arugula, herb oil, aged balsamic – Not quite what I was expecting, but super delicious.

 

Free Range Chicken Breast: Roasted shallot, pancetta, potato gnocchi, zucchini, herb butter sauce – the pancetta was quickly swept to the side, and aside from the rest of the dish being a little too soupy (rather that saucy) was so good – especially the gnocchi.

 

Vanilla Cheesecake: Fresh lemon curd, berry salad, toasted marshmallow.  I honestly don’t remember the lemon curd, but dessert wa *chef’s kiss.

 

Breakfast was a mountain granola with Greek yogurt and berry compote.  Peppermint tea to drink.  Not gonna lie, it was a lot of granola and yogurt.  It was really good, but way too much.

After that I checked  out, hit the road, and headed into the Rockies.  

#211 (continued) Banff Lake Louise

“Banff was Canada’s very first national park, incorporated as a tiny 10-square-mile parcel in 1885 and now grown into a 2656-square-mile giant that is Canada’s number-one destination. … [Lake] Louise has the greater name recognition due to its large ski area, its resort village, and it famous Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, a sumptuous, turreted Edwardian dream that’s probably the greatest of the Rocky Mountain hotels.” I splurged big-time and stayed right at the Fairmont Chateau, and I’m glad I did. My room had a tiny view of the lake and the hotel opened right up onto the lake at the best possible picture site. I was so happy not to deal with crowds, and parking and everything else. Instead I spent the time relaxing, sleeping, and eating.

 

The first night I was exhausted from the drive and ordered in-room dining, pizza. When I called to order I asked the guy what he recommended between a couple of things and he didn’t hesitate to say pizza. When the waiter brought my food she also commented that the pizza was the best thing on the menu and she gets it “way to often” herself.

 

On my “sight-seeing” day, I literally walked outside and hung out by the lake for a couple of hours.

Then, I headed inside for my afternoon tea reservation in the hotels signature restaurant. Both primary restaurants have windows along the lake and they reserve those tables for hotel guests. So, I had my tea with a truly astounding view.

 

I chose Ontario Icewine as my tea. Again, I’d ask my server for his opinion and he said this was definitely the most unique tea they had. I really liked it. They also provide tea timers so it can appropriately steep – he recommended 5 minutes. 

They do a 3-tier tea tower: Scone, Savory, and Dessert tiers and you only make a couple of choices, mostly you get a little bit of everything. I notified them of my allergy so my savory tier had a couple of substitutes. 

Scone Tier. I chose the traditional scone and the Saskatoon berry and white chocolate scones, with lemon curd, clotted cream, Devon cream, orange marmalade. (Didn’t pick: jalapeno and cheddar.)  

Both scones were so good and the lemon curd with Devon cream were my favorite combo. 

Savory Finger Sandwich Tier: 

• Choux Puff – Country Ham & Cheese 
• Petit Croissant – Duck (substituted from blackened tuna) 
• Brioche Toast – Honey Comb w/ Double Brie 
• Dip - Prawn (they substituted duck) & Avocado w/Rice Crackers 
• Sandwich – Curry Chicken Finger 

 

Coming in with the surprise win was the Choux Ham and Cheese. I could’ve eaten 17 of those. The honeycomb and brie and the curry chicken finger came in close behind. The duck and dip were both so-so, and I think it’s because they weren’t made as intended. I wish they would’ve substituted something from the vegan menu for those instead of just swapping out ingredients. 

Sweet Bouquet Tier: 

• Macaroon – Salted Caramel 
• Truffle – Passion Fruit
• Pot de Crème – Salted Caramel
• Cake – Olive Oil & Berry
• Tartlet – Lemon Meringue
• Berries – Vanilla Cream 

All were delicious, but the Pot de Crème and Truffle were easily the top. 
For dinner, I ate at the Lounge and had a delicious forno chicken sandwich.

 

And the next day, I checked out and headed to Yoho (which is literally right.there). I tried to visit Moraine Lake, but the sun was out and so were the crowds. I guess I’ll just have to go back some day.

#211 (continued) Jasper/Banff Icefields Parkway

“Heading [south], the Icefields Parkway links Lake Louise with Jasper National Park, along the way passing through a northern fantasy of hanging glaciers, deep river valleys and waterfalls, subalpine forests, and the Columbia Icefield, one of the largest accumulations of ice south of the Arctic Circle, covering nearly 116-square-miles.”

The drive from Jasper to Banff was rainy and so I didn’t stop everywhere I planned, but the drive was stunning.  Glacier-fed lakes and rivers everywhere and actual glaciers.  One of the excursions I decided against was a drive onto the glacier at the Columbia Icefield.  Instead, I stopped at a viewpoint and took pictures of the Athabasca toe.  

#211 (continuted) Jasper

“Jasper, Canada’s largest national park in the Rocky Mountains, has rugged scenery and a less touristed vibe. … Fishermen enjoy angling on Maligne Lake (the largest of the Rockies’ glacier-fed lakes), while the Miette Hot Springs offer soaks in outdoor pools, surrounded by forest and mountains.”

First up, Jasper. I actually had to rearrange a little bit – Jasper was supposed to be second – which actually worked out for the best since Jasper got snow the day I was originally supposed to be there.

One of my concessions to traveling during COVID was that I limited the number of excursions/experiences I planned and instead splurged on fancy hotels.  By the time I booked Jasper, most of the hotels in Jasper-proper were already booked.  So, I stayed up a Miette Hot Springs.  This place would be extra fabulous if you were actually visiting the hot springs, but alas they are closed this year. Don’t quote me, but I think I read it’s because they couldn’t find enough qualified lifeguards to open this season, due to COVID.

What I didn’t realize when I booked the Miette Springs Bungalows was that it’s literally next to the Hot Springs, and that also means it’s about 16km up a windy mountain road.  

The Bungalows themselves were really cute/rustic, and the views were pretty amazing.  They warn that while they have wi-fi you should download anything you want to watch before coming up the mountain.  I did not, but I should’ve.  They were serious about that wi-fi situation.  You don’t realize how much you use your phone until it’s actually not available.  Not just wi-fi, but zero cell service.  I sent a couple of texts that read, “I’m not sure when you’ll get this, but…..”

The first night I ate at the on-property restaurant.  It was good, but nothing super special. While I was eating a couple ran in and started talking about a bear that was roaming around.  I did not run out to see it.  Although, it’s an ok time of year to bear-watch – they are all getting fat and happy for winter, but I still didn’t want to accidentally stumble on a bear with cubs.

Day 2 was excursion day, and this was the only excursion that I had really considered doing.  I’d initially thought I’d visit Maligne (Ma-lene) Lake and take some pictures, wander around, but you can only see Spirit Island by taking a boat trip.  So, I booked a trip.  I soon found that both Alberta and British Columbia have enacted several rules to keep folks safe.  I had to show my vaccine card basically everywhere, including to be able to purchase a boat ticket.  Masks were required at all times in the cabin of the boat. Everyone complied, nobody complained, and many, many people commented on how much safer they felt because of it.  It’s not hard, folks. It’s about considering the community and not just you.

On the trip out I met, Mika the dog.  She was a really well-behaved , and smartly dressed little pup.  We became fast friends.  After we got to Spirit Island, I discovered a human girl, Mika.  Only because dog-Mika was being asked to sit and girl-Mika was very confused and upset that a stranger was telling her what to do. 

Maligne Lake is stunning and Spirit Island is a scared site of the Indigenous Nakoda or Stoney people. It should surprise no one that they were treated horribly, kicked off their land, driven onto reservations, and subjected to the kidnapping and genocide of their people. Recently, there have been attempts at reconciliation, Spirit Island, for example.  Visitors are no longer allowed to walk on that sacred ground, it is reserved only for the Stoney people and their ceremonies.  If fact, after discovery the mass graves at residential schools, the Stoney performed a ritual to allow the Stoney children’s spirits to rest. It should also surprise no one that the attempts at reconciliation are nice, but not nearly enough.  We stole their land, we killed their children, we tried to obliterated their way of life, their ties to the land, and we tried our best to erase their culture from this world. Until we very frankly confront the past and how we (white folks) still benefit from their destruction we cannot reconcile.

 Anyway, it’s beautiful there.

 And I had a delicious waffle.