February 22, 2013

#109 Soniat House

Soniat House

As you all know generally when there is a hotel on The List it is super fancy which means it is also super out of my price range, so I eat lunch there or do a drive-by.  I was so excited to discover that since I was already paying more than I usually do for hotels in the French Quarter (and since they had a mid-week rate available) I could afford to spend my last night in New Orleans at Soniat House.

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The room was nothing really to write home about; it was charming, but small - not really the grandeur I was expecting, but it was lovely, and had a glorious view of the courtyard.   

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You can see the night porter peeking out; my favorite part of this hotel is that it is completely private and closed off to the street.  You either need a key to the door or must ring the bell.  I like that exclusivity.  

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Courtyard

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Breezeway

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When I got back to the hotel after Preservation Hall I discovered that they also had turn down service.  I love coming into a hotel room to find that someone has tidied up.  Seriously, the lamps were all on, the towels were all replaced, and garbage emptied, and the toilet paper was re-folded in a triangle, and obviously the bed was turned down and the pillows restacked/refluffed.  

The only meal they offer is breakfast and there is only one item on the menu - freshly made buttermilk biscuits with homemade blackberry jam.  I was feeling pretty miserable by this time, but am so glad I took time to eat before leaving.

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Here is my table - set, ready and waiting for me in the courtyard.  The waiter made certain to find a sunny spot (he thought it was too chilly to eat in the courtyard that morning - it was about 60 degrees).  

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Can we talk about how much I love the little yellow tea pot?

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And you know how much I love fancy butter!

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Oh so yummy biscuits.

I'm so happy I was able to stay at Soniat House.  It really does have a very family feeling (they only have something like 20 employees), especially for a luxury hotel.  

Oh, and they also have a cat:
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"Hey!  I think those are portraits of me."

February 21, 2013

#108 Preservation Hall

Preservation Hall

This was the best thing I did in New Orleans.  I am not really a jazz fan, and only went to Preservation Hall because it was on the list, but it was AH-MAY-ZING!  I had so much fun (even though I was starting to feel really lousy ... I brought a serious cold home from New Orleans with me).  

Preservation Hall is all about showcasing New Orleans jazz.  It is in a ramshackle building just off Bourbon street and is totally no frills - wooden floors, a couple of rows of wooden benches, some cushions thrown on the floor and almost all standing room only.  They do three - 45 minute shows a night and they are first come, first served (almost exclusively) and are cash only.

This was on THE LIST so I wasn't about to leave it to first come, first served chance and reserved a "Big Shot Spot" for the 8:15 show.  There are only 8 reserved seats per show, and you get to skip the line and sit right by the musicians.  
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I meandered by about 5:30, on my way to dinner, so I would know for sure where I was headed and take some pictures before it got dark and the line was already starting to form.

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It is a totally ramshackle building both inside and out, and I can only believe that this look is carefully cultivated.  Otherwise, it probably ought to be condemned, but I love the look of a sorta-sketchy, old time-y, underground jazz club.

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You aren't allowed to take pictures while the band is on stage, but let me tell you that this teeny, tiny room was PACKED.

The band this night was led by Barry Stephenson on bass (he claimed it was his first time leading the band).

The trombone player was Glen David Andrews.  Who also may have been arrested for attempted murder at one point...nothing says hardened criminal like a sweater vest, though.

And on clarinet - Gregory Agid aka The Eye Candy.  There was a lady sitting on the front row of cushions and I don't know if she was drunk or just a little enthusiastic, but she had the band and the audience cracking up.  She actually yelled out "eye candy" when Gregory was introduced and kept the joke going for the whole performance.  

There were also amazing performers on trumpet, piano, and drums but I didn't catch their names and/or was not able to find them on the web - but the entire band was phenomenal.

Glen David Andrews also sang a song that brought the house down and invited audience participation which is always fun, especially in such an intimate venue.

Anyhow, I would highly, HIGHLY recommend checking out Preservation Hall if you find yourself in New Orleans.  It was truly the highlight of my trip.

February 19, 2013

#107 New Orleans Restaurant Scene

New Orleans Restaurant Scene

Y'all there are some good eats in N'Awlins.  The List mentions several restaurants and I walked past all of them at some point (NOLA, Galatoire's, Acme Oyster House, etc.), but only ate at Napoleon House.

I did eat at plenty of delicious places, though, and apart from the famous seafood (which you know of which I cannot partake) tried the local specialties.
I rolled into town pretty late, checked into the hotel and asked for some close places for a quick dinner.  I ended up at Frank's on Decatur where I had my very first muffaletta.

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Muffaletta is traditionally made with all sorts of stuff I don't normally eat - capicola, salami, ham, provolone, olive salad, and olive oil.  They are round loaves about 9 - 10 inches in diameter.  I ordered half and can tell you that a quarter would've been sufficient.  That thing was huge!

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The waitress also had an excellent recommendation for a beverage and is the one who steered me to Cafe Beignet.

The next day was Mardi Gras!  

I had brunch at Cafe Beignet
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One thing I hadn't planned on was that a lot of places close on Mardi Gras Day - I had planned to eat dinner at Napoleon House, but it was closed.  I ended up at the French Market Cafe where I had a turkey po' boy.

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It was possibly the best thing I ate in New Orleans.  (And I don't want to hear anything from the peanut gallery about my love of turkey sandwiches!)

Ash Wednesday I headed to Cafe Du Monde for breakfast
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And went to Napoleon House for dinner and had a roast beef po' boy and their famous Pimms Cup
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Roast beef po' boy

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It was really, really good ... but that turkey po' boy was still the best!

I should also mention that all the enclosed restaurants were really dark inside.  Which helps if you're eating unfamiliar food and don't really want to get a good look at how pink that meat is.  :)

After Napoleon House I had some time to kill before the concert at Preservation Hall so I went to Old Coffee Pot Gumbo for dessert.  I didn't take a picture, but had the richest, chocolatey-ist cake ever.  OCPG has been featured on Food Network - I thought it looked familiar, but didn't realized why until I walked in and you can actually order a sampler of the dishes featured on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.

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So, I ate my way through New Orleans and it was delicious!

February 17, 2013

#106 The French Quarter

The French Quarter

New Orleans is a combination of French, Spanish, Creole, and Southern styles that blend into decadence and elegance, conservatism and debauchery all packed into the Vieux Carre (French Quarter) the warren of streets between the Mississippi river on the south and Rampart Street to the north and from Canal Street to Esplanade Avenue on the west and east.

The French Quarter is obviously a huge tourist destination (especially during Mardi Gras), but is also heavily residential.  It is the craziest mix of high brown art galleries, voodoo stores, bars, restaurants, music clubs, and cafes you'll likely ever experience. I don't know if I'd want to live here, but it sure was fun to visit.

My tips:

  1. Spring for a hotel in the French Quarter - it is worth it. 
  2. If you are driving or renting a car find a hotel with secured parking (although you'll park your car and leave it - you don't need a car in the Quarter)
  3. Cafe Du Monde is best (least crowded) in the early morning, but they don't have the best beignets.
I stayed at two different hotels in the Quarter: Hotel Provincial and Soniat House.  Soniat House is actually on THE LIST so I'll talk about it later.  Hotel Provincial is clean, charming, offered parking and a continental breakfast, and is only two blocks from both Bourbon Street and Decatur, but feels miles away in terms of noise control.  Even being Mardi Gras I couldn't hear the revelry on the street.
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This was mid-afternoon on Fat Tuesday - JAM PACKED!

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And this is about 8:30 the next morning.

Cafe Du Monde is kind of a must-do in the French Quarter, but I got a tip from a waitress that the best beignets are at Cafe Beignet on Bourbon Street between Bienville and Conti (across from the Royal Sonesta Hotel). 
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Ironically, Pirates Alley runs past St. Louis Cathedral.

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I especially loved walking the Quarter in the "early" morning when it was quiet and peaceful.  It really is a beautiful collision of styles, sensibilities, and cultures.

February 15, 2013

#105 Mardi Gras

Mardi Gras 

Initially I thought that Mardi Gras was going to be completely off-limits this year for a variety of reasons including my state of unemployment and the impending arrival of a nubbin, but after much consideration I decided I would really regret it if I didn't take advantage while I had the time and lived close enough it just pop in for a couple of days. 


Honestly though, I went back and forth about attending - so much so that I only made reservations the afternoon before I arrived. Generally this would be impossible (the French Quarter hotels would have been booked for months) but due to the Super Bowl being there just the weekend before actual Mardi Gras day was somewhat less well attended than other years. This meant that a) hotels were available, b) hotels were as much of a bargain as can be had, c) the crowds were significant, but less overwhelming than in most other years and d) all this meant a compelling argument for my attendance.


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For most of the Mardi Gras season only those in parades are allowed to be masked, but on Mardi Gras day anyone can wear a mask. There were also a lot of "impromptu" parades around and through the French Quarter.



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New Orleans "official" beverage: a hurricane. Growing up in an environment with very strict alcohol control it was a little astonishing to be somewhere with such lenient rules. Open containers are totally legal as long as they are plastic - no glass bottles or aluminum cans, just pour it in a Solo cup, please.

ZULU KREWE PARADE
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This is the primary view during the parade. I was only three rows from the barricade, but mostly I saw hands waving and stretching to catch the "throws". The floats all toss literal tons of stuff to the crowd - I unfortunately was behind a little girl on a step stool and a giant man who was at least ten feet tall. That little girl had an entire garbage bag filled with crap she had caught. 

And here is my biggest complaint about the parade... not only do they throw individual strings of beads, but they throw entire bags of beads, they throw stuffed animals, Frisbees, umbrellas, footballs, and so much other dollar store crap. This mother/daughter were boarding a plane back home that afternoon and what are they going to do with ALL THAT CRAP. Wouldn't it be good sportsmanship (especially since she was on a freaking step stool) to rip open a couple of the bags of beads and distribute them to the crowd? There were a lot of people behind me who were very vocal about the selfishness she was indulging. I happened to catch a couple of strands and that was good enough for me, but it was literally 15 rows deep and this little girl (and her mom) weren't letting ANYTHING get past them.

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Those are the hands of a ten foot tall black man and a stingy selfish little girl.

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The official parades go down St. Charles Avenue and I was able to get a spot on the corner of St. Charles and Canal. It was rainy in New Orleans the entire time I was there (it gave me serious flashbacks to that no good, very bad, terrible day in May) and toward the end of ZULU it started to pour. So, having forgotten both my hat and umbrella AND being a non-fan of parades to start with I fled to Bourbon Street.

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Technically it is illegal to throw anything off a balcony - this stops absolutely nobody.

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I only saw one instance of the "traditional" way to get beads. A woman just stood below a balcony and after some back and forth taunting with the people above bared it all and was showered with beads in return. The lady walking next to me did a total double take and said, "Did she really just show her business out on the street?!" Yes, yes she did.

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Mardi Gras is for the young and the old. Everyone gets into it! 

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Beads littered the street; by dark you couldn't walk for beads on Bourbon Street.

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This is my favorite picture of the trip. 

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Where's Waldo?


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I am happy to be able to say that I've been there and done that, but I don't think I will every feel the need to do it again. It was still crowded, still a lot of loud and disorderly drunks, and it was both HOT and RAINY which is just a miserable combination.