#229 Winterlude (Ottawa)

“…The imposing Chateau Laurier remains the finest hotel in the nation’s capital, if not all of eastern Canada. Built in 192, at the site where the Rideau Canal meets the Ottawa River, the Laurier offers a historical castle-like setting, handsome furnishings, old-world service, and one of the most European hotel experiences this side of the Atlantic.”

Again, did I go during Winterlude? No. Ironically, the sun was out in full for the weekend I spent in Ottawa. Lunch on the terrace was hot enough that I worried the staff would suffer heat stroke. I had a drink coupon that I used for a fruity summer drink, the dregs of which I ultimately surrendered the bees, but mostly I drank water – lots of water, to counteract that heat. The pizza was unusual, but pretty good.

I booked tea service on check out day, and this made up for the marginal tea in Quebec. Food and atmosphere was much better here. 

#228 Carnaval in the Heart of New France (Quebec City)

“It’s all here: cobbled streets, slate-roofed stone houses, a 95% French-speaking population, patisseries, vin rouge, and fresh baguettes.”

“At the famous Differin Terrace, a pedestrian-only rampart …offers the city’s best views.”

“…nothing is more Quebec than … Chateau Frontenac, the very symbol of the city, dominating the skyline from the top of Cap Diamard, the highest point in town. Designed in the style of the Loire Valley chateau and looking as if it’s stood here forever, it is, in fact, only a little over a century old…Outside it’s all stone and brick turrets, green copper roofs, and dormered windows, while inside, it labyrinthine corridors (can personally vouch for this) lead through various wings.”

Was I there during Carnaval? No. Am I counting it anyway? Yes.

I actually was in Quebec City twice in the summer of 2023. The first was at an Airbnb (rainy and miserable) and the second was as the last port city before debarkation of the HAL cruise (sunny and much better).

I went to high tea at Chateau Frontenac on my last day of the Airbnb. My plan was to arrive early, park, and explore the Differin Terrace before my reservation. It, of course, was pouring so I ended up just kind of wandering around the hotel (see above labyrinthine corridors) and then made my way to the restaurant. The tea was really marginal, I would rank it last of all the fancy high teas I’ve done, and while I was sat next to windows looking out on the terrace, I was also sat next to a couple of women who did nothing except complain the entire time, about everything.

The shore day, I actually ditched my formal excursion and took a taxi back to the Terrace and had a lovely afternoon kind of wandering around and mostly people watching…a much better way to spend the afternoon.

#227 Vieux Montreal

Paris without the jet lag. Listen, my experience was not great, but that doesn't mean most people who go love it. The food was good, though.

#226 Charlevoix

“…the waters where the St. Lawrence and the Saguenay rivers meet are home to beluga, minke, humpback, rorqual, and blue whales in the summer.”

It rained. It was awful. The worst whale-watching experience ever. No really, when I got to the pier/dock and saw the situation I sat in my car for a full 5 minutes thinking I should just ditch the excursion and go back to the motel. Instead, I reminded myself of the other whale-watching excursions I been on and how exciting and fun they were. Yeah, I should’ve skipped it. Along with a list of not fun things about the boat, service, etc. we didn’t see whales. Or at least I didn’t. Or maybe, I did. Does this count?

*maybe a beluga?

The excursion guarantees “marine mammal” sightings, so of course we also swung by the colony of sea lions? Seals? That just live on these rocks year round. After the excursion I found a little restaurant and had poutine and a club sandwich. That was the best part of Charlevoix. 

While not actually part of Charlevoix, I’m including the HAL shore excursion to Saguenay here as well. In a miraculous turn of events, it was a beautiful day! The excursion I did went to an alpaca farm, a cheese factory, and a glass blowing studio. It really is a beautiful part of the world.

#225 Prince Edward Island

“Pastoral as a picture book, with tiny towns set among rolling green hills, Prince Edward Island (PEI) is surrounded by the cold North Atlantic and crisscrossed by red dirt roads…

PEI’s bucolic lifestyle was nurtured by isolation, and even now – with the island connected to the mainland by the 8-mile Confederation Bridge – the feel is more cow pasture than rat race.

Blue Heron Drive is probably the most traveled (and most commercial) route, as it passes through the north shore’s PEI National Park, which includes the home of L.M. Montgomery and her novel Anne of Green Gables.”

Another day, another downpour of rain. We actually lucked out a little here and while it rained off and on all day we did get well-timed breaks in the down p our at the Green Gables house.   

#224 Bay of Fundy

"Fundy is a place of absolute wonder where the world's highest tides rise as much as 48 feet in six hours - more than twenty-two times greater than the average in open seas. Fundy National Park, established in 1948, protects 80 square miles of the land along the bay's west coast. ...Visitors can walk nearly three-quarters of a mile across the tidal flats to the water's edge - then kayak that whole distance a few hours later, when the 100 billion tons of water have rushed back in."

I had two excursions scheduled for Bay of Fundy, the first in New Brunswick which are the first three sets of pictures, and the second on the Nova Scotia side. The weather was raining both days, but was atrocious in Nova Scotia. Like, downpour, fully soaked, miserable, atrocious. It was also the day we were supposed to "walk the ocean floor". Sounds like fun, right? It started with the tour guide telling us we needed to sign a waiver because nobody was liable for any injury. Ok. The

 he talked and talked and talked and talked some more about how dangerous the stairs would be, especially in this weather. How slippery they are and on and on. So, when we got there and it was still a downpour, I decided I would not be risking life and limb that day.

As folks came back on the bus talking about how glorious it was and how it was a once in a lifetime opportunity, and how I would surely regret it if I didn't go down there, well, I couldn't take it anymore. I kindly(?, less than kindly?) explained that I was so happy they got to have a once in a lifetime experience, and I would hate it if they had regrets. I however, do not view this as once in a lifetime experience. I will be back during better weather, where I can stay in these cottages (right next door) and sit in a hot tub while watching the tides come in and go out. And that the only thing I would regret, is breaking my femur on those fucking stairs. Here is where I mention that someone on the tour actually fell three times out there. 

#223 Lake Massawippi

"Ten-mile-long Lake Massawippi sits in the southeastern part of the Townships, less than a half hour's drive from the US border, and is its most desirable resort area, especially around the northern end's North Hatley. ... Hovey Manor is one of these. Built in 1899 by Henry Atkinson, an Atlanta electricity baron who arrived every summer accompanied by eighteen servants and ten horses, it was designed in the style of George Washington's Mount Vernon, with a broad, white-columned veranda. Outside, its 25 hillside acres feature English-style gardens sloping down to two small lake beaches. ... The inn's award winning restaurant delight."

I also took advantage of the "half hour's drive" back to the US to order a much-needed rain jacket. Crossing the US the border agent was weirdly intent on discovering any limes that might be in my possession, and on the way back the Canadian border agent just wanted to make sure I was gonna take the jacket home with me when I left. Border control is wild, y'all.

"In the Eastern Townships' Brome Missisquoi district, the landscape is not just for viewing, it's for savoring. This lovely area of rolling hills and valleys serves as the breadbasket of Quebec, and more than 60 winemakers, farmers, maple syrup producers, beekeepers, cheese makers, cider brewers, and other producers of fresh local food products open their properties to visitors."

I only took one photo, it appears of this part of the district, but I did a bunch of driving area and can vouch for it being a lovely area. It was also rainy (so much of my time in Canada had just the worst weather) so I didn't stop everywhere I'd planned, but where I did stop I had a lovely time. The lady at this ciderie did not speak any English, and of course, my French is non-existent, but with Google translate and a lot of laughing and nodding we made a tasting and purchase happen.