February 19, 2020

#205 Beaufort and the Low Country

“The honeycombed coastline south of Charleston stretches for some 200 miles, dissolving into peninsulas, channels, and dozens of marshy subtropical “sea islands” that make up South Carolina’s Low Country, a rural and slow land peopled by the descendants of slaves and planters.”

I started the day by taking a river cruise with Capt. Dick's.  It was ostensibly a dolphin tour, but without a lot of dolphin activity.  We did see a couple, one of them appeared to be tangled in a trap line, but by the time we got close it had gotten loose. Or maybe it was never trapped, just messing with us.

Surprisingly it was also LOUD.  Parris Island is really close by and they were having a graduation ceremony that weekend and they were flying extra maneuver exercises.  The actual exercises happen out over the ocean, but they circle back over the river to land.

“The small waterfront town of Beaufort (pronounced Byew-fort), a kind of Charleston in miniature, is the gateway to the Sea Islands… Only a short walk from the restored waterfront and the town’s main drag the [Rhett House] Inn is the quintessence of Southern hospitality.”

Rhett House Inn is only about a block off the water so I walked past and grabbed a couple of photos and then I walked a little bit through downtown, and it's about what you expect from a charming, little southern town.  

I'd read about Scout Market and there world-famous sweet tea float so I stopped for a refreshment.  I had it with the peach sorbet, and it was delicious.  

“Test the simple cuisine at St. Helena’s Gullah Grub Cafe” 

After my float I headed to St. Helena island to find Gullah Grub and get some Low Country cooking. It is definitely a no-frills establishment, but my chicken was really good and so was the potato salad.  The top crunchy part of the mac and cheese was the best, but the deep dish style made the middle part seem - egg-y, and I definitely don't do egg-y.