#221 Montreal's Summer Festivals

"Part iconoclastic Francophone outpost in otherwise anglais-speaking North America, part skyscraping internationalist city, Montreal is also a festival town par excellence, boasting several major festivals and a number of smaller events that fill the summer months."

"Just for Laughs (Juste pour Rire) Festival promotes the idea that humor can be reinvented, with artists stretching the boundries of the form. Founded in 1983, when sixteen French-speaking comedians performed for a total crowd of 5,000, the festival has grown to host approximately 2,000 artists annually, performing for a million and a half laughers at more than thirty venues along Rue St.-Denis."

I purchases a "passport" that included ticket options to pre-selected shows. I only had 2 weekends to choose from, the festival was nearly over by the time I arrived in Montreal so choices were limited, but I did find a show to attend.

Just for the Culture, is a comedy showcase formerly known as The Ethnic Show, and features a diverse line-up of comedians from a variety of cultural backgrounds. The show this year was hosted by Alonzo Bodden and featured Zarna Garg, Gianmarco Soresi, Joyelle Nicole Johnson, Judy Gold, Arthur Simeon, and Malik Elassal. It was pretty funny even if the show was at 4:30 in the afternoon - a fact that was the punchline of several jokes throughout the show. 

#192 and #193 Revisited: Vermont (Stowe and the Northeast Kingdom)

I stayed in an Airbnb in the border of New York and Vermont for the express purpose of spending at least 2 weekends in Vermont during the month I was there. I managed one day. A very, very rainy day. 

The weather was so bad that I contemplated turning around several times, but just as I’d decide it was better postponed the rain would let up a little and I would press on. But it did mean that things kept getting cut from the itinerary. In the end I only stopped at 3 of the 6 or 7 places on my list that day. Cabot Country Store, Trapp Family Resort, and St. Johnsbury. 

By the time I pulled into St. Johnsbury and made my purchase, I told the cashier that I was thinking I might get food as well, just let me check the radar and see what the storm was going to do. She looked at me and quietly said, “It’s only going to get worse; the streets are going to flood. You should head home now.” 

I took her advice and drove another 3 hours home through ever worsening weather. The next day I woke up to news that the roads I had just traveled were indeed under water, washed out, massive flooding throughout the area I was just in. I’m sad I didn’t get to do everything on my list and I’m very glad that I was safe and sound. I hope that is true for everyone in the flood zones. 

Cabot Country Store –  Pre-COVID Cabot had several farm stores open around Vermont. Now there is only the one, but they still have cheese tastings available. The day I stopped the tasting theme was their cheese paired with condiments, mostly fruit-based items like jams, preserves, compotes, etc.

The person running each station decides what to pair together and present. It was all delicious, but this garlic herb cheddar paired with Southern style rustic mustard was my absolute favorite! 

Next stop was Trapp Family Lodge, yep, the von Trapps of Sound of Music Fame. When I was last here in 2019, I had lunch and then stopped at the Kaffehaus for the most amazing pastry (almond horn) ever. 

When I got there this afternoon the almond horns were all sold out, but I asked the cashier if he happened to have any hiding in the back. He rustled up 2 (1 to eat there, and one to take home). 

No photos in St. Johnsbury, it was in and out with the sage advice from the cashier. I didn’t stop at Ben & Jerry’s, Cold Hollow Cider Mill, and Prohibition Pig, and there’s a glassblowing studio that I’ve seen a million times driving around that area that I don’t know the name of, but always think about stopping.

#24 Revisited: Pennsylvania Dutch Country

“The English are encouraged to respect the privacy of these insular, but kind people and their simple lifestyle, but that doesn’t mean you can’t take a nice, aimless meander down the area’s backcountry roads, which take you past one-room schoolhouses, neat fields cultivated by mule-driven plows, quaintly named towns like Bird-in-Hand and Paradise (and Blue Ball or Intercourse).”

My experience this time around is that they aren’t as insular as they once were. While the Amish, specifically, still like their privacy, they are more actively participating in the commerce of tourism. While I was looking up things to do, there was an option to visit The Amish Farm and House and have dinner with a local Amish family, in their home. The reviews were spectacular, and it seems the family looks at it as an opportunity to meet others and develop friendships. I wish my schedule had allowed me to participate.

“The Historic Smithton Inn, [has been] welcoming guests since 1763, when it was built as a stagecoach stop. … It’s located adjacent to the Ephrata Cloister, an historic site [,] composed of more than twenty beautifully restored buildings. It was once home to a Quaker-like monastic sect whose population reach 300 in its 1750 heyday.”

Last, but never least – I stopped by Kitchen Kettle Village. They were offering a package where you pay, like $30, and get a free gift from several stores as well as $15 toward lunch at Harvest Café. Since I was planning to go anyway, it seemed like good motivation because I really hate shopping. (I was gonna go anyway to get a soft pretzel, but that may have been the extent of it without the incentive to go into stores.) Anyway, it’s grown quite a bit since the last time I visited and I ended up spending way more than I planned, and it was during the worst of the bad air quality days from the Canadian fires, but man, it still felt like going home. And that pretzel was still delicious.

#220 The Golden Door

So, this one is a little bit of a cheat. The Golden Door spa takes 40 guests at a time, for a week-long experience costing around $10,000/week. That is....definitely out of my budget. They also make super clear that they do not have day passes and you cannot book one-off services. I'd ruled out crossing this item of The List a long time ago. However, in double checking while preparing for this trip, I noticed they'd opened a Country Store - open to the public. So, yeah, I went to the store and not the spa, but it's my version of The List, so I make the rules and the exceptions.

From their website: 

"Since introducing bio-intensive farming methods to our kitchen garden and groves, we've found ourselves with a bounty beyond our needs. Now we're delighted to share our seasonal, organic, flavorful and nutrient-rich harvests as our way of nurturing community beyond our doors."

I bought an "everything" baguette, some fig salami, a couple of different snacks: mint cookies, sweet potato chips, organic dried pineapple, and some of their newly-introduced spa products. I haven't tried those out, but am excited to. The cashier also threw in some oranges because I mentioned I was at a hotel for a week and he wanted me to have fresh fruit.

#219 Hotel del Coronado

"It is eternal spring on the curved isthmus of Coronado ... this is the home of Hotel Del Coronado (aka the Del, aka the Grand Lady by the Sea), which sits like a Victorian wedding cake on 26 lovely beachfront acres."

I had to travel back to Long Beach for work and decided I'd fly out for the weekend and cross a couple of things off the list. Because I didn't have the chance to cross anything off in 2022, I also decided that this weekend would be a huge splurge where I just went, stayed in the fancy hotel, and didn't look at the prices. 

I got to Hotel Del around 6 o'clock. There was a fancy black-tie gala going on at the hotel in the courtyard that my room overlooked.

  

Once checked in and settled, I headed down to the restaurants to get dinner. They have a pizza place on site, and I was hoping that it wouldn't be too busy. I ordered a Quattro Formaggi (mozzarella, gorgonzola, provolone, grana padano, garlic, chile, mentuccia). The wait wasn't as long as expected and it was really good.

  

They also have a grab and go bakery, coffee shop, etc. and I stocked up on waters and caffeine. 

After dinner, I stopped at Babcock and Story for an after-dinner drink and people watching. It was a little chilly so I got a hot drink - a Maple Toddy: Maker's Mark, maple syrup, fresh lemon juice, and cinnamon stick. Honestly, it was just okay, but did its job of warming me up a little bit.

On my way back to the room, I also stopped by the shops and bought some new sunglasses. Somewhere between the airport in Long Beach and the drive to San Diego - I'd lost mine. I met some women who were there on a "girls' trip" from Philadelphia, one who owns a yoga studio in Plymouth Meeting...small world.

Sunday, I woke up and went to cross #220 off the list. When I got back to Hotel Del, I decided to grab lunch. I went back to the pizza place thinking it was so good, and I'd try something else, but ended up getting the same pizza. It was genuinely so delicious. Then, I walked around the beach front a little. More people watching, and then as the sun started going down back to B&S for afternoon old fashioned(s) for the sunset.

Dinner was at Sheerwater. I loved the beachy blue color scheme. I started with the sourdough boule (cultured butter, EVOO, olive tapenade, Himalayan salt). It was so good. That tapenade - I could eat gallons of it. My main was a roasted chicken breast with broccoli rabe, gnocchi, green sauce, queso anejo. It was delicious. The gnocchi was so soft and pillowy. So good!

The couple next to me at dinner was celebrating their 51st anniversary. They'd spent their honeymoon at Hotel Del. He couldn't help, but recall that rooms back then were $45/night and breakfast was $5. 

I planned to go back to Sheerwater Monday morning for their breakfast buffet, but ultimately decided to chill on my balcony instead. It was a really great weekend - much needed. It was great to cross another place off The List.

#218 (continued) Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden

Scholar’s Secret Scavenger Hunt

There are bat shapes all over the Garden. Bats symbolize good luck in Chinese because the word for bat sounds the same as the word for fortune or blessing.  The door handles are also bats – a docent was giving a tour while I was in there and she whispered to me to be sure and touch the door handles to bring good luck.  Near the Jade Water Pavilion is the Heavenly Well, there are bat shapes on the floor, in the window shapes, and on the pointed roof tiles.

 

The Garden was built in 1986 by a team of Chinese artisans who used the method and materials used during the Ming dynasty. So, no power tools, nails, screws or power tools. They used mortise and tenon joins to slot together wooden beams.

There is a hidden cave under the rock mountain. The Scholar designed his Garden as a miniature version of nature. Caves and mountains were mythical places where the Immortals lived.  The cave invites the Immortals or “good spirits” to live there. Dragons can also inhabit the cave, to see a Dragon was considered good luck.

The Scholar’s Face can be seen if you look closely at the wooden screen in the Jade Water Pavilion. A Scholar was a highly educated man who worked for the Emperor. He had to pass very difficult exams that tested his education in literature, the arts, and philosophy.

Plum blossom symbolizes spring; Orchid, summer; chrysanthemum, autumn; and bamboo, water.  Together these four flowers are referred to as the Four Gentlemen and can be found in the Jade Water Pavilion.  The Four Gentlemen also represent the ideal characteristics a man should have: courage (plum blossom), moral virtue (orchid), loyalty (chrysanthemum), and resilience (bamboo). 

The railings were designed for people to sit sideways and lean against them so you can look at the view whilst chatting comfortably with a friend. The railings are all anchored by these hooks, I assume so you can remove or move around the railings.

Dragon shapes and symbols represent The Emperor, good luck, power, and greatness.  The Chinese dragon has the body of a snake and is covered in scales like a fish.  The roof of the zigzag corridor has tiles that represent the snake-like body of the dragon.

Turtles represent long-life. There are large rocks that act as steps throughout the Garden. The shape reminds us of a turtle shell. Anyone who steps on these rocks will live forever.  During the summer there are also turtles living in the pond. The Tai Hu rocks all come from Lake Tai in China. Made of limestone and naturally formed by erosion, their interesting shapes ask us to imagine what they may be.

#218 Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden

“…The Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden rises from a former parking lot on the edge of Vancouver’s Chinatown, the third largest outside the Orient, topped only by those of San Francisco and New York. It is the first (and is reputed to be the most authentic) full-scale classical Chinese garden ever built outside of China. … The finished product is a pocket-sized otherworld, a walled oasis of harmony where careful attention is paid to a classical balance between yin and yang: contrasting light and shadow, large and small, smooth and rough…”

This garden is beautiful.  It’s literally as described “a pocket-sized otherworld, a walled oasis of harmony”.  They also have a couple of things to make a visit educational and enjoyable. Their Visitor’s Guide is really excellent, and they have a couple of scavenger hunts on their website to help keep kids (and Jalaires) engaged during their visit.  Most of the below is straight from the Visitor's Guide and the Scavenger Hunt

From the Guide:

Moon Gate: Throughout the Garden, you will see circular opening and doorways. These are called Moon Gates, and like our beautiful leak windows, are perfect for framing views as you explore. The circular shape is symbolic of heaven and perfections, while the square and hexagonal shapes seen in other areas of the Garden represent earth.

Double Corridor: The double corridor acts as both a dividing and linking border between the classical Garden and adjoining public park, organically combining them into one whole. The ‘zigzag’ colonnade is designed to slow your stride and ensure the entire path is never seen at once. Views from both sides appear and disappear like paintings displayed in a long gallery.

Jade Water Pavilion: Like our double corridor, the Jade Water Pavilion called Han Bi Xie is a building that sits above the water, framing views on both sides. Notice the beautiful woodwork and lattice framed windows with patterns of plums, orchids, bamboo, and chrysanthemums.

Lookout & South Courtyard: The back pavilion, or lookout, provides one of the best perspectives of the Garden, although even from here you cannot see all the various elements in one glance. As you follow the path, notice the change in the zigzag pattern, and enjoy the serenity of the “heavenly well”; the small triangular courtyard where the walls and roof meet to highlight a beautiful garden scene.

Ting: The Cloudy and Colorful Pavilion is the focal point of the Garden as it sits high on a mountain of Tai Hu rocks. This traditionally-shaped pavilion is called a Ting, and is a very common feature in classical Chinese gardens, as it is considered an ideal space to sit and observe the world.

Scholar’s Study and Courtyard: The Scholars who would have lived in garden-homes read, wrote, composed poetry, studied music and painted here, in the most serene part of the Garden. See examples of a Scholar’s traditional “tools” in the study, including his writing implements, such as an ink stone, brushes, and any seals used to sign correspondence or poetry. As you explore the Garden, look for the artists’ seals in red on the bottom of mounted paintings and poems.

 

Music Pavilion: Situated on the edge of the Scholar’s Courtyard, this small pavilion would have showcased musicians hired to entertain the Scholar and his guests. Designed to promote acoustics, this small podium is raised above the courtyard as a sign of respect to the musicians who would have otherwise been considered of a lower social status to the Scholar.

Hall of One Hundred Rivers & Courtyard: Like rivers flowing into the sea, people with different vitures and contributions flow together to create a community and a better society. This largest and newest hall was built to showcase exhibitions and accommodate expanding educational and public programming needs.

China Maple Hall or Hua Feng Tang: The heart of this garden-home, China Maple Hall is a prime example of the traditional Ming dynasty building techniques (no nails, screws, or glue) found throughout the Garden. This hall contains rare, naturally stained nan wood pillars that were gifted from Suzhour and natural camphor rafters whose scent repels insects.

See part II for the Scavenger Hunt.