October 17, 2013

#123 Museu Picasso

Museu Picasso - Barcelona

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Museu Picasso is the most comprehensive collection with regard to Picasso's early years as an apprentice and student.  I was, frankly, surprised to see his classical training shine through in his early work.  It was a side of Picasso that you rarely see displayed in museums.  It was fascinating to see how his training and experiences influenced his creative style in later years.  One example was particularly striking.  There were two still life painting both a fruit.  The first, done as a school assignment could've been painted by Cezanne.  The second, from much later in his life, was recognizably a Picasso.

The museum is housed in five "palaces"on Carrer Montcada which is a tiny little alley-like street.  I was entirely unsure if I was in the right place until I saw the sign.

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Picasso's childhood friend, Jaume Sabartes began to develop the idea for a museum in the mid-50s.  In July 1960 the town hall established the Picasso museum and in April 1962 Jaume donated his entire private collection to the city of Barcelona, which in return ceded the works it owned to the museum.  

Picasso supported the idea of a museum a donated a copy of each new print. In 1968 he gifted the entire series of his Las Meninas as a tribute to his friend, Jaume, who had passed away earlier that year.  The donation of Las Meninas (a collection of 57 works that are his own personal interpretation of Velazquez's Las Meninas) making it the only series of works painted by Picasso on display all together in one museum.  I can tell you that it is awe-inspiring.  I was fortunate to know Velazquez's original work and to see Picasso's interpretation of each character was ... emotional.

In 1970, Picasso, again in memory of his friend - Jaume, donated nearly 2500 works that had previously been kept by his family.  His widow, Jacqueline, donated a number of pieces as well, including prints, etchings, lithographs, and ceramics in 1982.  

Quick note about the ceramics - there was one that was a bowl with a face at the bottom, and all I could think about was how terrifying it would be to be eating a bowl of cereal or soup and finishing to find that scary face floating at the bottom!

The museum also owns many sketchbooks that I found positively fascinating. 

As if the artwork wasn't awesome enough, the building architecture was also wonderful.  And since these were originally homes I couldn't help but think of what it would have been like to live there.

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They were selling this guy in the gift shop...LOVE. IT.  (not $15 Euros love, but enough love to take a prohibited picture)

October 15, 2013

#122 U Fleku

U Fleku

Prague's oldest and most famous beer hall.  Records show that a license to make beer goes back to 1499.  U Fleku doesn't export or even bottle their pivo and the only place to get it is here.  

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Being famously not a beer drinker I had potato soup instead.  It was good.
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The waiters wander through the restaurant with these impossibly heavy trays just dropping beers off wherever there is an empty glass or lonely coaster.

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You can't see him well, but we even had an accordion player wandering through the crowd playing and singing.

October 13, 2013

#121 Cesky Krumlov

Cesky Krumlov

The is a genuine Bohemian village with a castle that is the second largest in Czech (just behind Prague Castle). For around 300 years it was the home to the Rozenberk dynasty that ruled southern Bohemia from 1316 to the 16th century.  And really, it is a spectacular, gorgeous, beautiful town.
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You can see the castle tower from pretty much everywhere in town.  This means that you cannot really get too lost which is good news for the directionally impaired, like me.  Every time I wandered away from the main path the town eventually wound me back to the bridge that leads to the castle.

From far away you marvel at the stone work on the castle tower.  As you get closer you realize IT IS PAINTED!
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If you enter through the red gate you have to climb, and climb, and climb up the hill.  If you keep climbing you are rewarded with spectacular views.
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Oh wait!  Before we get to the views I forgot the most important part.  The moat.  Or more specifically the BEAR moat.  Yes, there are bears in the moat and have been for hundreds of years.
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Ok the view...
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And then you climb some more...and finally come to the royal gardens.
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Painted sun dial.  It was not sunny enough to work (another rainy, overcast day in Czech).

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This bird was loving the sunflower seeds.  He didn't even fly away when I got close enough for photos.

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High water mark

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See the first level of the blue building?  That is where the scenic pictures were taken.
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Random fresco on a store.

This town is full of little archways and alleys.
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Although sometimes you walk down an alley and find this:
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Or this...
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Or these:
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(This one reminded me of Spoon Mountain)

Sometimes you walk down an alley and find a music/wine store...
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No really a vinoteka
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Do you need to find a really old CD?  Do you also need a glass of wine?  This is your place!

You can buy pot make-up; or beer make-up!
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You can own this weird bird sculpture.
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Yes, you can still find working telephone booths.  You just have to go to Europe to find them.

Seriously, it's a requirement for a town square to have something like this.
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There were always musicians on this bridge.

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If you ever have the chance to spend a day in Cesky Krumlov, do it!