#231 Gros Morne National Park

From 1000 Places to See Before You Die: 

“…Along Newfoundland’s rugged western coast, the “big mournful place” is in fact an area of stunning natural beauty, a fantasy landscape of rough, rocky mountains, stark fjords, deep glacial lakes, coastal bogs, and wave-carved cliffs. Add a dash of mist and it’s easy to picture what life was like here 1000 years ago, when Leif Eriksson and 35 Viking seagoers established North America’s first European colony.”

We saw this family skipping stones on the lake.

“In geologic terms, though, a thousand years may as well be a day – which is especially obvious in the Tablelands area. …Tablelands’ hills are bare, rusty, flattened, and eroded by time….About 570 million years ago, the rocks that form this area were part of earth’s mantle, driven to the surface from under the crust during the continental breakup…”

The difference between the Tablelands and the rest of the park (even just down the road) was striking. Once second you're in green and blue vibrant fjords, mountains, etc. and literally within a couple hundred yards it's dry, yellow, flat. I drove back and forth across the dividing line a couple of times trying to capture the true difference, but couldn't quite do it. It was really amazing.

*Some photo credit and a lot of fun credit goes to Cort!

#230 Cape Breton Island & The Cabot Trail

From 1000 Place to See Before You Die: 

“Both the natural beauty and island culture get their due on the 184-mile Cabot Trail. Following the picturesque, craggy coastline around Cape Breton Highlands National Park, the trail is one of the most scenic drives in North America… Most breathtakingof all is the 27-mile stretch from Cheticamp north to Pleasant Bay, with its remarkable views of the western coast.”

The first day was re-positioning from the Bay to Cape Breton Island. We stayed overnight in Cheticamp at an okay, but not great motel, and ate at an okay, but not great restaurant. 

Overall we had really good weather on this trip. But the day we drove this 27-mile stretch….well, it started out overcast and gray. As we wound our way upwards, the fog closed in and we didn’t get the great views. 

“On the east coast, the town of Ingonish is home to the Keltic Lodge, a gleaming white, red-roofed, Tudor-style resort. The views are a knockout.”

We ended the day in Ingonish staying at a pretty nice cabin in the woods. My only complaint there was a lack of comfortable living room furniture and a weird check-in/check-out process. But the cabin itself was lovely. Even if the private beach access wasn’t (according to Cort). 

We woke up on the second day to beautiful sunny weather. We started went to the Dancing Moose Cafe for a freaking delicious breakfast. We both had the Dutch Pannenkoek, sat underneath a huge stuffed moose, and bought cute little stuffed animal souvenirs. 

After breakfast, we decided that since the weather was so much better we’d double back and do part of the Cabot Trail again. (Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to drive the entire trail so we still missed out on those 27-mile views. /sigh) 

But we did encounter a dog driving a van, sparkling ocean views, and verdant valleys. Gorgeous. 

This was the day that I realized I was sick. Sure it was a cold, we carried on. I felt ok, just a little stuffy. 

*Some photo credit and a lot of fun credit goes to Cort!

#224 Revisited: Bay of Fundy

From the original post: 

"As folks came back on the bus talking about how glorious it was and how it was a once in a lifetime opportunity, and how I would surely regret it if I didn't go down there, well, I couldn't take it anymore. I kindly(?, less than kindly?) explained that I was so happy they got to have a once in a lifetime experience, and I would hate it if they had regrets. I however, do not view this as once in a lifetime experience. I will be back during better weather, where I can stay in these cottages (right next door) and sit in a hot tub while watching the tides come in and go out. And that the only thing I would regret, is breaking my femur on those fucking stairs. Here is where I mention that someone on the tour actually fell three times out there."

So, yeah, here I am a year later I’m back during better weather staying in those cottages (right next door) and while I didn’t sit in a hot tub, I did spend a lot of time watching the tides come in and go out. And it was glorious. Not least because, Cort was able to come and join. 

We spent 2 nights at the Mud Piddock cottage and it was so cute and lovely with such an amazing view. They have their own lookout, and it is right next door to the provincial park that has access directly to the ocean floor. 

The last day of our vacation we circled back to visit Peggy’s Cove (very touristic, worth the drive by for a couple of photos, but wouldn’t spend a ton of time there), and then back to Bay of Fundy to visit a couple of wineries. It was lovely, AND we had the best cheese sticks I’ve ever had before. (Cort can confirm even though neither of us took pics) at one of the wineries. 

It was really lovely weather and I would go back just to spend another week sitting and watching the tides. 

As I drove back through New Brunswick to end my time in Canada I had one last stop. 

 “…take the Fundy Coastal Drive from St. Stephen to Aulac, passing through not only the natural beauty but some lovely towns as well, including the 19th century village of St. Andrews with it distinguished [Marriott Autograph Collection] Algonquin Hotel. Built in 1889 to lure wealthy vacationers away from the city heat, the Algonquin is a manor-style gem, with a red-tiled roof and bay views from the upper floors.”

It was the perfect end to this vacation.

*Some photo credit and a lot of fun credit goes to Cort!

#229 Winterlude (Ottawa)

“…The imposing Chateau Laurier remains the finest hotel in the nation’s capital, if not all of eastern Canada. Built in 192, at the site where the Rideau Canal meets the Ottawa River, the Laurier offers a historical castle-like setting, handsome furnishings, old-world service, and one of the most European hotel experiences this side of the Atlantic.”

Again, did I go during Winterlude? No. Ironically, the sun was out in full for the weekend I spent in Ottawa. Lunch on the terrace was hot enough that I worried the staff would suffer heat stroke. I had a drink coupon that I used for a fruity summer drink, the dregs of which I ultimately surrendered the bees, but mostly I drank water – lots of water, to counteract that heat. The pizza was unusual, but pretty good.

I booked tea service on check out day, and this made up for the marginal tea in Quebec. Food and atmosphere was much better here. 

#228 Carnaval in the Heart of New France (Quebec City)

“It’s all here: cobbled streets, slate-roofed stone houses, a 95% French-speaking population, patisseries, vin rouge, and fresh baguettes.”

“At the famous Differin Terrace, a pedestrian-only rampart …offers the city’s best views.”

“…nothing is more Quebec than … Chateau Frontenac, the very symbol of the city, dominating the skyline from the top of Cap Diamard, the highest point in town. Designed in the style of the Loire Valley chateau and looking as if it’s stood here forever, it is, in fact, only a little over a century old…Outside it’s all stone and brick turrets, green copper roofs, and dormered windows, while inside, it labyrinthine corridors (can personally vouch for this) lead through various wings.”

Was I there during Carnaval? No. Am I counting it anyway? Yes.

I actually was in Quebec City twice in the summer of 2023. The first was at an Airbnb (rainy and miserable) and the second was as the last port city before debarkation of the HAL cruise (sunny and much better).

I went to high tea at Chateau Frontenac on my last day of the Airbnb. My plan was to arrive early, park, and explore the Differin Terrace before my reservation. It, of course, was pouring so I ended up just kind of wandering around the hotel (see above labyrinthine corridors) and then made my way to the restaurant. The tea was really marginal, I would rank it last of all the fancy high teas I’ve done, and while I was sat next to windows looking out on the terrace, I was also sat next to a couple of women who did nothing except complain the entire time, about everything.

The shore day, I actually ditched my formal excursion and took a taxi back to the Terrace and had a lovely afternoon kind of wandering around and mostly people watching…a much better way to spend the afternoon.

#227 Vieux Montreal

Paris without the jet lag. Listen, my experience was not great, but that doesn't mean most people who go love it. The food was good, though.

#226 Charlevoix

“…the waters where the St. Lawrence and the Saguenay rivers meet are home to beluga, minke, humpback, rorqual, and blue whales in the summer.”

It rained. It was awful. The worst whale-watching experience ever. No really, when I got to the pier/dock and saw the situation I sat in my car for a full 5 minutes thinking I should just ditch the excursion and go back to the motel. Instead, I reminded myself of the other whale-watching excursions I been on and how exciting and fun they were. Yeah, I should’ve skipped it. Along with a list of not fun things about the boat, service, etc. we didn’t see whales. Or at least I didn’t. Or maybe, I did. Does this count?

*maybe a beluga?

The excursion guarantees “marine mammal” sightings, so of course we also swung by the colony of sea lions? Seals? That just live on these rocks year round. After the excursion I found a little restaurant and had poutine and a club sandwich. That was the best part of Charlevoix. 

While not actually part of Charlevoix, I’m including the HAL shore excursion to Saguenay here as well. In a miraculous turn of events, it was a beautiful day! The excursion I did went to an alpaca farm, a cheese factory, and a glass blowing studio. It really is a beautiful part of the world.